Staff Writer |
In the golden vineyards of Brokenwood Wines, a mantra reverberates— "Make Great Wine and Have Fun." Yet, beneath this cheerful credo lies a profound narrative of dedication to the environment, community, and the relentless quest for greatness. This devotion transcends winemaking, reaching into the parallel realm of horse breeding and racing, where the pursuit of excellence and legacy follows a strikingly similar path.
Established in 1970 by Sydney-based solicitors Tony Albert, John Beeston, and James Halliday, Brokenwood Wines has evolved into one of Australia’s most reputable labels. The winery began with a 10-acre block in the foothills of the Brokenback Ranges, benefiting from the Hunter Valley’s unique geography—cloud-filtered light and clay soils.Today,Brokenwood Wines continues its legacy, championing diversity, equality, and inclusion through exceptional wines.
Geoff Krieger, CEO and co-owner, brings over forty years of experience driving Brokenwood Wines’ growth and global success while contributing to industry leadership roles.
"We strive to harmonise economic and operational needs," Krieger reveals. As they nurture their vineyards, they foster a symbiotic relationship with the land, minimising their footprint on nature and humanity.
In the stables, racehorse trainers meticulously curate bloodlines, crafting the perfect symphony of speed, stamina, and temperament. Much like vintners selecting grape varietals for their distinct qualities, trainers aspire to achieve the ideal equine blend.
"There is a fantastic parallel between the bloodlines and livestock in horse racing and the genetic material in growing grapes and making great wines," Krieger explained.
The Hunter Valley, Australia's most venerable wine-producing region, thrives on some of the planet's finest genetic plant material, akin to the distinguished lineage of Thoroughbred horses. Crafting top-quality wines necessitates selecting the finest grapes, mirroring the breeding strategies of elite horse trainers. Both endeavours demand the selection of superior genetic material to achieve unparalleled excellence.
"In order to make the best wines in the world, you need the best grapes. And in order to make the best grapes, you need to be very specific and very selective on genetic material," says Geoff.
"We see great parallels between the breeding that horse trainers and those experts do with their bloodlines. And in vineyards, we make sure that we're keeping the best genetic material and taking out those less than ideal.
Interestingly, just an hour's drive from the Hunter Valley lies a hub of Australia's most esteemed horse trainers and breeders, creating a unique synergy between two meticulous industries. Both winemaking and horse breeding demand unwavering precision, dedication, and attention to detail.
Sharing his insights on the finesse inherent in winemaking—a concept that transcends both vineyards and racetracks— Geoff Krieger delves into how the Hunter Valley’s unique geography imparts natural elegance and longevity to its wines. He emphasises that the distinctive geographical location of the Hunter Valley is pivotal in crafting wines that exude finesse.
"We're only 45 kilometers from the coast, which means during the second half of ripening, we get a lot of cloud cover – 80 to 90%," he explains.
"This means that even though the Hunter Valley is a warm region, we don't get direct sunlight onto the grapevine and the berries, which would cause them to shrivel and raisin. Instead, we get physiological ripeness at much lower sugar levels than you would in other parts of Australia."
"So, we end up with wines that are finessed naturally, naturally elegant, naturally food-friendly, and wines that are made for the long term," Krieger notes.
These natural attributes of the Hunter Valley in the ripening process yield wines that are savoury, medium-bodied, and lower in alcohol—attributes that mirror the finesse and timing required to train a racehorse to peak at the right moment.
In fact, some of the best Hunter Valley wines are designed to age for an extended period – 10 to 15 years or even 20 to 30 years in the bottle.
"Some of these wines are made for ageing over the very long term," Krieger says. "And I think some will be rewarded to breeders or collectors who can enjoy them over the longer term."
This long-term commitment is akin to the slow and deliberate process of nurturing a racehorse to achieve peak performance. According to Krieger, identifying and maintaining peak performance in horse racing requires a skilled trainer who knows how to bring out the best in their horses.
"From my experience, you need to have a trainer that understands how to get the best out of the horse, train it, and bring it into race time when the horse is at peak performance," he explains.
The same principles apply to winemaking. "It's similar to a bottle of wine. We've been growing grapes in the Hunter Valley for 200 years now. We've gotten our vineyards sorted, and we know what grapes grow best on those vineyards. And we know how to make the wine from them." Krieger asserts.
Australia's vast wine landscape is another factor that contributes to the diversity of its wines. With 64 different wine-growing regions across the country, it's clear that not all Australian wines are created equal.
"Australia's got a fascination with distance racing and the Melbourne Cup, etc.," Krieger observes. "But I think some of our winemakers are making underbelly finance – trying to produce wines that will be enjoyed in the short term – when really age-worthy wines can be enjoyed over the longer term."
"Australia's about the continental landmass of Europe," he notes. "The wines in Australia may have a commonality, but they certainly differ depending on where they're grown in the country."
As Australia’s winemakers continue their journey, finesse remains their guiding star. Whether in the saddle or among the vines, the pursuit of perfection unites them. So raise your glass to the Hunter Valley—where cloud-kissed grapes become timeless elixirs and where finesse flows from racetrack to winery.
Patience is more than a virtue—it’s a way of life.
"I think it starts at the top," Krieger explains.
"Our board and our shareholders are prepared to get a return on our investment but are very patient about the capital invested in the business. I know that rewards will come, but it will take a long time for that to happen."
Just as patience is a cornerstone of success in the equine business, where long-term goals drive achievement, the winery’s winemaking journey is marked by a slow and thoughtful process.
"The grapevines are fed and preserved over time and our wine drinkers are rewarded after long-term cellaring," Krieger notes.
For Brokenwood Wines, winemaking isn’t just a business—it’s a legacy. With roots dating back to 1970, this iconic winery is committed to creating wines that transcend the generations with an unwavering dedication to building a lasting heritage.
"Our intention is for the company to be around at least another 54 years," Krieger explains, "and for generations to come."
To achieve this goal, the company focuses on building a strong financial foundation.
"I make decisions together with my board to ensure that the company has a very strong financial footing going forward as a very profitable company," he notes, "and we reinvest our profits to build the facilities and make sure that our equipment is always as good as it can get."
This strategy has paid off in a big way. Brokenwood's Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz has been classified as an exceptional wine by Langtons, Australia's most respected wine classification.
This is the highest level achieved by any wine from the Hunter Valley, and it solidifies the winery’s reputation as the pinnacle of New South Wales and Valley Wine purchases.
To maintain this level of excellence, Brokenwood invests heavily in its vineyards, wineries, and people.
"We only make the best because we invest in our vineyards, invest in our wineries, and invest in our people," Geoff states.
It's clear that many other successful businesses, including Thoroughbred owners and trainers, share similar goals.
To achieve this longevity, Brokenwood focuses on financial strength.
“We make decisions,” Geoff explains, “to keep the company on solid footing.” Profitability isn’t an end in itself—it’s a means to reinvest. Facilities are upgraded, equipment fine-tuned, and quality follows.”
Where grapes ripen and dreams ferment, pressure simmers. Krieger explains, "I guess the thing that I can do is work with our viticultural and winemaking teams to give them the confidence and the courage to make the right decisions.”
"That's not about short-term decisions, but ones that will create wines that consumers will want to pay a premium for over the medium to long term."
For Brokenwood Wines, this means prioritising quality and sustainability above all else.
A mantra that transcends business and spills into life is "Make Great Wine and Have Fun." "It's one that we use all the time," Krieger reveals.
"And we kind of feel like if you can do those two things, in the right order, one will have a good life, whether you're the maker of the wine, the owner of the wine company, or the customer of the wine company."
This patient approach is essential in both winemaking and horse breeding, where long-term goals and sustained excellence are crucial for success.
Geoff shares a gem—a wine that mirrors the speed of champion racehorses and the elegance of a timeless sprint—their Hunter Valley Semillon from the 2023 vintage.
"I think one of our wines exemplifies that," he says.
"And I guess it would be our Hunter Valley Semillon from the 2023 vintage, naturally." This wine is characterised by its light, lemony, and citrusy flavours, perfect for those who appreciate a wine that can be enjoyed both young and fresh, or aged to perfection.
"It can be drunk young and fresh and a real sprinter from the get-go," the wine specialist says. "Or you can let it age in a bottle for a long time, and at that point, it becomes a stayer."
"I'm not sure whether there are too many things that go on to become better as they age," he notes. "But it's likely that in the world of wine, sometimes you're lucky enough to get both."
As glasses clink in the Brokenwood Wines’ cellar, as hooves pound the racetrack, their Hunter Valley Semillon weaves its tale. It’s a sprinter with staying power—a wine that defies the clock and invites us to linger.
Like horse races, wine shows are integral to celebrating and judging excellence. These gatherings bring together winemakers, writers, and connoisseurs—individuals who intimately understand the nuances of wine.
"Australia hosts a series of wine shows where our wines are judged against our peers," explains Geoff.
The team believes that participating in these shows is not just about winning awards, but about improving their craft and being recognised by their peers.
"We would take a number of our staff to the Wine Show Awards luncheon, which has about 250 people from the wine industry attending a lunch and celebrate the awards that are handed out to the winners of the show over a long and enjoyable lunch,"he notes.
The team believes that participating in these shows is not just about winning awards, but about improving their craft and being recognised by their peers. "It's like a rising tide floats all boats," Krieger notes, "and we believe in the show."
This ethos mirrors the competitive yet collegial spirit of horse racing, where every race is a step toward greater mastery and recognition. As glasses clink and laughter fills the cellar, they raise a toast—to excellence, to camaraderie, and to the art of celebration.
What began as a weekend pursuit for three successful lawyers has flourished into Brokenwood Wines, one of Australia’s most illustrious wine labels. Their story mirrors the growth of the vines they tend, transforming from humble origins into a winery that reverberates with the founders' passion. Their wines celebrate the human spirit, reaching beyond borders to forge a legacy. Here’s to the grand race—where each sip signifies a victory, and every bottle immortalises a legacy.